Sequence of work |
- Remove engine & gearbox
- Discard throttle and cold start cables
- Remove all existing engine bay wiring
loom
- Fit new HA wiring loom, bind, secure and
support correctly, or make up own from donor car
- Fabricate accelerator pedal, actuation
mechanism for potentiometer, or use HA complete pedal kit
- Run wiring from potentiometer to engine
bay with correct connectors
- Use existing TDI alternator with spring
loaded tensioner. 90amp alternator has excellent output
- Discard air con pump and bracket (unless
you want air con)
- Change water pump pulley for ribbed
groove type
- Measure size for new ribbed belt
- Fit spigot shaft bearing for T3 TD into
crank shaft end or machine up a phosphor bronze bush
- Change fly wheel bolts
- Fit new timing belt and tensioners
- Change crank shaft pulley bolt
- Set injector pump timing to 0.70mm
- Change crank shaft large oil seal
housing for that of T3 TD JX type (a better seal)
- Renew small crank oil seal
- Enlarge slightly the turbo waste gate
rod end eye to prevent seizing
- Change oil pump for that of original T3
TD, with the inclined pick up tube
- Blank off original TDI turbo oil return
at block (HA part)
- Fit new oil return pipe (HA)
- Remove and discard exhaust and inlet
manifold recycling pipes and valve, fabricate appropriate steel blanking
plates
- Tap / clean threads in the block for the
left hand engine mounting
- Fit 80 deg c rated thermostat
- Change thermostat housing for original
T3
- Fit modified engine crank case breather
pipe (HA)
- Break vacuum pump, only one take off
point required
- Blank off the cylinder head small water
outlet by tapping it to 5mm and fitting sealed stainless steel bolt
- Mark and stamp a new TDC mark on
flywheel by measuring crank rotation and lining it up with mark on T3 bell
housing (don’t forget to grind off old mark)
- Fit new engine lazer cut stainless steel
back plates (HA)
- Fit the T3 JX TD sump before fitting the
flywheel first, otherwise you cannot get at the sump bolts
- Change and modify T3 original dipstick
tube (note this engine now takes 5 litres of oil, mark dipstick
accordingly)
- Round off bracket fixing eye of power
steering pump where hose passes to prevent chaffing
- Fit exhaust adapter onto turbo outlet in
order to retain original T3 TD exhaust system (HA)
- Change gearbox input shaft to larger
diameter (HA)
- Ensure the air mass flow censor arrow
faces the engine
- Fabricate special angled connector to
retain original JX air filter
- Fabricate air filter mounting brackets
to fix filter box behind left side of Gipsy bumper
- Fit small collar that goes into inlet
manifold (HA part no 0512)
- Fit HA intercooler with brackets or U
bolts, mount in the region of the left hand rear spring housing
- Fit intercooler radiator in the front of
vehicle, route respective pipe work to rear, fit or adapt bleed and
filling mechanism
- Fit external oil cooler, filter adapter,
and appropriate piping (not essential but desirable)
- Mount computer / ECU on the left hand
side near the lights in the engine bay. The EGR connection is not used
(but if read by the computer it will state fail but ignore it)
- Connect waste gate relay (red, blue &
black pipes)
- Connect VAK pipe from turbo onto ECU.
The cruise control is the blue & white connectors. Blue equals brake,
white equals clutch. Note – these connectors must be bridged unless they
are used for cruise control
- Connect red wire constant live to
battery
- Fit heater plug fuse between the two
reds at the black and grey relays (that supply the computer). The thin red
wire at the computer relays should be left blank (insulate). You may need
to remove black original wiring box and fit it onto the left hand side
panel to allow turbo / intercooler pipes to pass the white round pin
connector and the square white connector fit into the original T3
connectors which are situated in the engine compartment T3 black wiring
box. The black wire on one of the connectors should be left blank –
insulate.
- Connect black connector to expansion
tank water level indicator
- The alternator connector has a single
green wire for use with a T3 rev counter. Locate rev counter pulse on back
of alternator and connect green, then correctly set adjusting screw on
back of clock. The big brown and black connectors adjacent to the engine
loom should be connected.
- The immobiliser box should be fitted in
the front near the fuse box.
- Cut black plastic ring off T3 original
ignition switch barrel and click computer pick up black collar into place.
It will fit perfectly.
- Cut console around ignition switch to
allow for new pick up ring
- Two keys to be provided, or original TDI
chips from donor car. If not available chips will have to be programmed to
brain and profiles cut to suit the existing T3 locks and new plastic key
tops fitted (using blank keys).
- Extend the plain grey cable to the front
cab and join onto the immobiliser grey.
- The immobiliser – brown to earth, the
black cable to terminal 15 on the fuse box. It is better to take it off
black feed to ignition switch as this can cause problems with initial
starting (so it comes on with the key).
- The white cable with the red tracer is
to the test port which can be located in the glove box.
- Immobiliser connections
T6 - 1 is K1.15
T6 - 2 is grey/white wire from ECU
T6 – 2 goes to test port no 7
T6 – 4 is earth
T6 – 6 is earth
- The throttle potentiometer needs an
extra long length 4.5 mtr with appropriate connectors.
- Fit and try various resistors in series
on temperature gauge yellow/red feed wire until correct needle setting is
obtained. A variable resistor is useful for this task.
- File away part of the rib of the plastic
engine cover as the alternator will foul at this point and cause annoying
knocking noise.
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The Pictorial Work Sequence |
Click on the thumbnails for a bigger image
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1. The Donor car a 1995 Passat 90 bhp |
2. Take everything you can from the donor car |
3. Remove your old JX unit |
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4.
Finding TDC on TDI engine |
5.
New TDC mark made |
6.
Fit JX sump |
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7.
New Gates, belt and tensioners |
8.
New alternator/water pump ribbed belt |
9. Special angled silicone intercooler
pipes |
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10. Handling frame made to give correct
angle |
11. Turbo oil return and left hand mounting |
12. Exhaust adapter |
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13.
Remove and blank re-circulating pipes |
14. Adaptor view |
15.
T3 support cross strut needed |
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16.
Use lighter T3 pipe and box RHS |
17.
Fitting new TDI lump |
18.
Another view |
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19.
HA crank case breather |
20. TDI steering pump adaptor and shaped
eye |
21. Steering pump in situ |
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22. Accurately cutting intercooler pipe
holes |
23. Holes cut and much wiring to be sorted |
24. Marking out air intake pipe hole |
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25. Intake pipe hole cut |
26. Temporary taping of loom to form
correct shape |
27. More loom shaping |
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28. Binding loom with non sticky tape to
allow flex |
29. The finished loom correctly shaped for
Gipsy |
30. Black T3 box repositioned, loom fixed,
intercooler pipes located |
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31. Sizing up wiring |
32. Battery isolator, a must, and extra
fusing |
33. Resistor positioned in line to set temp
gauge needle |
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34. Various resistors 2 – 14 ohms |
35.
Fabricated nylon ECU mountings, allows air flow |
36. Nice position of ECU |